While thousands of people attempt to reach the summit of Mont Blanc every year; there is no easy way up the mountain. It must be climbed! Climbing Mont Blanc involves scaling steep snow, ice and rock in varying quantities depending on which route is chosen.
Climbing equipment these days is very specialized. It does not necessarily follow that the more technical the gear, the better equipped one is. Mont Blanc climbed by one of the three standard itineraries is considered a classic mountaineering route. Equipment should be chosen to match this objective.
Technical Equipment for Mont Blanc
There are numerous gear stores in Chamonix — the town from where the climb is usually commenced — that rent most items of Mont Blanc equipment mentioned below.
- 10 or 12-point mountaineering crampons. e.g. Grivel G12 New Matic. Remove rubber point protectors. Carry them in a light weight heavy duty sac or in a crampon pouch on back pack.
- Anti-balling plates (antibots in french) are rubber or plastic 'soles' that fit onto crampons and prevent snow building up underneath the crampons. They are a critical safety feature.
- Classic mountaineering ice ax should be 50–65 cm depending on a person's height. e.g. Black Diamond Raven with Grip. The leash is unnecessary.
- Light-weight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops and waist belt with permanently double-backed buckles. e.g. Arcteryx Micro Blue
- Telescopic trekking poles. Bring one or two and get accustomed to using them prior to the trip. They are of particular benefit on descent to minimize stress on the knees.
- Alpine helmet and the means to securely attach a headlamp to the outside of it. e.g. Petzl Meteor III
If participating in a guided trip, the guide will advise on technical climbing hardware. Teamed with a rope for the group, 3 locking carabiners, 4 snap link carabiners, 2 prussiks, 2 x 120cm slings, 1 or 2 ice screws is basic glacier travel kit.
Group and Safety Equipment for Mont Blanc
This equipment is usually carried by the guide, team leader or dispersed amongst the group.
- Rope. Typically a single rated rope the length of which depends on the group size and route taken. e.g. Beal Joker 50m x 9.1mm
- Survival shelter e.g. Terra Nova Bothy Bag
- First aid kit
- GPS, compass, topographic map and waterproof map bag, altimeter and watch.
- Communication devices (mobile phone and / or mountain radio). Many of the mountain huts have limited power and may allow a mobile phone to be recharged. Mobile phone and GPS should be carried in waterproof hard cases.
The equipment listed is ineffectual without the know-how to use it and experience in high mountain terrain. If the group has any doubts about their ability to climb Mont Blanc they should consider hiring a guide. Before taking part in a guided climb of Mont Blanc or any other mountain, it is worth considering which items should be bought and which should be rented. A guide can best advise on the technical features and merits of comparable climbing equipment.
For more articles in this series read about how to Maximise Summit Success Climbing Mont Blanc and Gear to Climb Mont Blanc.
