The human body is fragile. It can operate comfortably within only a small temperature range and just a few thousand meters above sea level. Beyond these limits performance level drops steeply. Mont Blanc tops out at close to 5,000 meters, a height to which it is necessary to acclimatize.
While the summit should only be attempted under a good weather forecast, conditions can change rapidly. It is essential to climb with the clothing and gear to cope with harsh conditions.
Clothing for Climbing Mont Blanc
Mountaineering clothing is becoming increasingly specialized. A large range of mountain wear brands and climbing specific products are available on the market. There are many variations on alpine clothing and thermal and shell layering combinations. Listed below are the garments and gear typically worn by experienced mountaineers.
- Full shank (rigid sole) mountaineering boots e.g. La Sportiva Nepal Extreme. If renting, wear boots at least a week in advance of the trip and use own foot beds.
- Gaiters are best worn over the top of over-trousers to reduce likelihood of snagging pants with crampons.
- Mid-thickness socks or a medium sock teamed with a liner sock. Wear fresh socks on summit day.
- Gortex shell (or similar) over-trousers or salopettes with full length zips (so they can be taken on or off without removing crampons). e.g. Marmot W's Precip Full Zip Pant
- Gortex shell jacket e.g. North Face Prophecy Jacket.
- Soft shell or fleece pants and jacket (wind proof insulation layers). e.g. Patagonia Alpine Guide Pant and Marmot Hero Jacket.
- Wear multiple thin wool or synthetic thermal layers on the upper body.
- It is not advised to have bare arms. Seek out a light colored, long sleeved, thermal base layer.
- Emergency warm layer – lightweight down or fleece jacket. e.g. Patagonia Micro Puff Hooded Jacket
- Warm beanie and scarf, balaclava or Buff for covering face and neck from sun and wind.
- Warm gloves or over-mits.
- Liner or thin Windstopper gloves.
- Peaked cap or wide brimmed sun hat.
- Glacier sunglasses with category 4 lenses e.g. Julbo Explorer Cameleon and hard carry case.
- Ski goggles preferably with yellow lens for low visibility conditions.
Mont Blanc Backpack
- Packs are sized. It should be comfortable when loaded and fit snugly to the body.
- 30–40 liter capacity e.g. Osprey Talon 33
- Everything (except sharp and pointy items) should fit inside the backpack when not in use.
- System for attaching an ice axe and walking poles to the outside of the backpack.
- Crampon patch, gear loops and hip stash pocket are useful, non-essential pack features.
Personal Gear for Climbing Mont Blanc
Preparation days are useful for determining the necessities within a backpack. Establish before packing for the summit days, if the team for Mont Blanc will be returning to the refuge on descent or traversing the mountain. For those parties not returning to the hut it is worth foregoing a few creature comforts to minimize weight. Remember everything carried will be summiting Mont Blanc including toothpaste!
- Cash for hut purchases (French alpine huts frequently take Euro cash only for payment).
- Water vessels (1.5 litres minimum). Hydration systems such as Camel packs are not recommended. If used, hose insulation is essential and a spare 1.5 liter bottle should be carried. Nalgene or similar wide-mouthed, plastic water bottles have the advantage of accepting hot beverages and can easily be replenished with snow on descent. An alternative to the convenience of a hydration system is to carry a 250 ml bottle in an inside jacket pocket. This keeps a drink handy and insulated close to the body. Consider adding an isotonic hydration powder to drinks.
- Toiletries should be kept to a minimum but could include: hand sanitizer gel, baby wipes (inquire about running water in huts). Save conveniently packaged airline teeth-cleaning kits. Cosmetic sachet samples e.g. moisturizer are useful and earplugs.
- Medication. Inform guide or group leader of any medication taken. An anti-inflammatory can ease the symptoms of mild mountain sickness.
- Headlamp. Use a light weight LED version e.g. Petzl Tikka or Black Diamond Ion
- Sunscreen and lip protection (SPF 50).
- Food should include ready forms of energy — glucose tablets, energy bars, performance gels and so on, in a handy pocket.
Being well equipped without being over-laden can take the stress out of a Mont Blanc attempt and improve chances of reaching the top.
For more articles in this series read about how to Maximize Summit Success Climbing Mont Blanc and choosing Technical Equipment to Climb Mont Blanc.
